Category: Lessons

Honeymoon Cabin, pencil, 11×14, unframed, $300

A few years ago I took 1/2 a semester of oil painting at a local junior college. I learned more about painting from only the primary colors, and I learned about layering (called “glazing” in Artspeak). I learned that I need more light to see than a 19 year old, that just because a class is labeled something (“Photorealism”) doesn’t mean it is that class (it was Studio painting), that I have very little tolerance for rap “music” (rhythmic and profane chanting would be a more accurate term for it), and that the teacher was still trying to “stick it to The Man”. Hunh? He also had very little tolerance for my ilk – a wannabe without a Master’s of Fine Arts posing as an artist and an art teacher.

That’s me – a poser of the first degree!  Gotta have a degree in something to teach, I suppose.

So, Mr. Stick-It-To-The-Man, why are you bitterly and loudly complaining about working at a junior college while I am making and selling art? Hmmmm???

In addition, I learned that there is a real contempt out there for those of us who chose to paint from photos. One of the most influential painters and writers in my so-called art career is Jack White, and he says “All realistic artists either work from photos or they lie about it.”

I do teach people how to draw and they learn and they love it. The only ones who don’t learn are the ones who quit too soon!

I quit the painting class. But, I continue to paint, to learn more about painting by reading and practicing, and I sell lots of paintings. Take that, Mr. Stick-it-to-the-man!

But I’m not bitter. 😎

I believe strongly and whole-heartedly that drawing well is the basis for painting well.

Look at this – Shereen learned to draw!

This is a post on how to layer with drawing pencils. I used to only use a 6B; you can read about it here. Then, I met someone who drew beautifully using the full range. I had no idea how to use them and figured they must layered  lightest to darkest. Or maybe they were meant to be used one at a time, depending on how you wanted things to look. Kind of weird that as an art major I never learned these techniques. Anyway, I never could quite achieve the kind of blacks that my drawings needed. After joining the Colored Pencil Society of America, I began applying things learned from their workshops to my graphite pencil drawings. Look at what I learned about layering graphite pencils:

Defies logic! But the evidence is right here. If you have paper and pencils, try it for yourself! I’d love to read your comments once you have experimented with this sort of layering.

School pencils are rated #1, #2 and #3.  It is a different rating system, one which I haven’t researched because I am a pencil artist, not a student nor a school teacher. #3 is really hard, and it is horrible if you are writing on a soft surface such as a math workbook. #1 is really dark and wonderful if you get one by accident. #2  are the most common and are the same as the HB drawing pencils. Ever notice that before?

School pencils come with erasers. Those erasers never last as long as the pencils. Drawing pencils don’t come with erasers. My theory is this: the eraser will wear out very quickly but you will have the habit of flipping the pencil over. If you have that habit, when your eraser is gone, you will scratch the heck out of your drawing. Then you will cry. Your drawing will be wrecked. If you are used to reaching for a separate eraser, there is less chance of this sort of disaster. Or tragedy.

Pencils are made from a blend of graphite and clay. If they have more clay, they are harder and lighter. If they have more graphite, they are blacker and softer.

H is for Hard, B is for Black.  I don’t get why those two are considered opposites in Pencil World. (Hey Pencil Manufacturers, tune in here!)

Usually the H and the B are accompanied by a number, usually 2 – 6, but occasionally as high as 9 depending on the brands. If there is no number with the letter, a 1 (one) is implied. HB is right in the center. F is an unnecessary interloper that shouldn’t be included in a set because it takes up space that could be better used for a more useful pencil. I’d like a set without an F and with an extra 6B, please. (Pencil manufacturers, are you listening??)

The higher the number, the more the particular quality of that pencil. A 6H is very hard, very pale, and very easily scratches the surface of the drawing paper. A 6B is very black, very soft, and will crack, crumble or collapse internally if you so much as frown in its direction. This is why I’d like a second 6B included in a set of pencils. (Hey Pencil Manufacturers, I’m talking to you!!)

When I began drawing, I only used the Turquoise brand. Or it might have been called Eagle or Berol or Sanford. They keep buying each other out, and sometimes these graphite pencils now say “Prismacolor” despite the fact that they are all shades of gray. The outer paint color remains turquoise, so I’ll just call them Turquoise pencils in spite of their multiple marriages.

After Turquoise, I discovered blue. Blue pencils are made by Staedtler. Or by Mars. Or maybe they are made by Lumograph. Anyway, their outer casings are a beautiful shade of blue and they tend to be softer and blacker than the Turquoise pencils of the same rating.

Red is not my favorite color – you will seldom see me wearing it. But when it comes to pencils, I LOVE these little red guys. They were made by Stabilo. Sob. Stabilo doesn’t make them anymore. These are the best pencils I have ever used. There may not be much difference between them and the blue pencils, but for some reason, these pencils are about as close to perfection as pencils can be!